Este cochito me tienta mucho mucho, está tirado de precio, pero tengo que coger cuatro guaguas y 150km para sólo ir a verlo, ya sabéis, puto carnet.
http://www.tenercoche.com/buscar/coches ... S&id=72891
Qué opinión os merece, no sé nada de él, sólo las fotos. ¿éste era el homólogo al mk3 pero en nissan? pregunto.
Saludos suprososssss
300zx muy buena pinta
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gusitrol8pow
- Supra-Forero profesional
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- Registrado: 05 Abr 2008, 02:21
300zx muy buena pinta
Muerte por kiki: nunca pensé que moriría así pero tampoco perdí la esperanza.
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gusitrol8pow
- Supra-Forero profesional
- Mensajes: 1473
- Registrado: 05 Abr 2008, 02:21
Me lo deja en 1.300 euros porque hay que comprarle un rodillo de una rueda (140euros) para pasarle la itv. Dice que funciona todo, es de Alemania (1986) rematriculado aquí en el 2.000, le pregunté si por debajo estaba muy picado y me dijo que un poco. Me escama un poco ya que, por ejemplo, hay otro vendiéndose en Las Palmas por 7500 a falta de neumáticos y en todas las web que he mirado lo más barato son 3.000 euros y atmosféricos.
¿Merece la pena ir a verlo? sería el autoregalo de reyes jajajaj.
Saludos suprosossss
¿Merece la pena ir a verlo? sería el autoregalo de reyes jajajaj.
Saludos suprosossss
Muerte por kiki: nunca pensé que moriría así pero tampoco perdí la esperanza.
pues si esta bien esta muy barato y es un buen coche y ademas clasico 
Nose que decirte tio, la verdad es que es bastante parecido al mk3, si no mira este y dime a que te recuerda 
http://www.segundamano.es/vi/13288946.htm?ca=29_s
El precio esta bien, aunque por un pokito mas te puedes pillar uno como este :DD
Eso si que es el pepino padre
y jortomatico tambien jaja
Suerte compañero y si al final te lo pillas una sesion fotografica heeee
Un saludo y Feliz Supra-Navidad
http://www.segundamano.es/vi/13288946.htm?ca=29_s
El precio esta bien, aunque por un pokito mas te puedes pillar uno como este :DD
Eso si que es el pepino padre
y jortomatico tambien jajaSuerte compañero y si al final te lo pillas una sesion fotografica heeee
Un saludo y Feliz Supra-Navidad
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supremo
- Supra-Forero profesional nivel 2
- Mensajes: 1661
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el 300zx es una leyenda tambien como los supra y por ese precio la verdad es que esta tirado asi que si esta medio bien conservado ni te lo pienses ¿es el turbo? no obstante ten claro que un coche con estos años sea supra o nisan o lo que sea cosas le vas a tener que hacer osea que al final el collar te costara mas que el perro seguro por lo que depende de lo que en cuanto a dinero puedas destinarle pero desde luego tentador es . si tienes tiempo hazte esos kilometros y aprovechas un dia para cambiar de aires y pasar un dia viendo coches ¿que mejor? y si te encaja no te lo pienses demasiado o te enfriaras jejejeje amos que si yo tubiera el dinerillo apalancao y no lo necesitase pa na lo tendria asumido y despues poco a poco a hecharle mucho mas dinero hasta dejarlo como una joya vamos lo que estoy haciendo poco a poco con mi supra 
AQUELLO QUE NO TE MATA ,TE HACE MAS FUERTE.
PLATAFORMA===>"SUREÑOS SUPROSOS"
PLATAFORMA===>"SUREÑOS SUPROSOS"
el viejo no se, pero el ultimo que es el que tuve yo todo una bala, y se iba el culo cuando querias y facil de manejar con sus 286cvs, el que dices tu es un Z31, ya es un buen bicho, al igual que nuestros mkIII, yo iria a verlo, a x mi 300zx fui a 540 kms de mi casa....valio la pena. suerte con la compra 
hay quien dice que con 100cv sobra... si,si fuera un triciclo de plastico....
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gusitrol8pow
- Supra-Forero profesional
- Mensajes: 1473
- Registrado: 05 Abr 2008, 02:21
joer chankla, como que de 1.300 a 5.900 es un poquito más, yo flipo, 4.600 euros tardo un año o más en reunirlos, y cuando empiece a andar otra vez con el supra peor aún.
Vosotros sois los culpables de que me estén gustando tanto estos "hierros oxidados" y como dice supremo si el coche está entero, creo que es buena oportunidad, para no pensárselo mucho, ya que con poquito que le haga lo podré volver a vender y recuperar como poco un 70% de lo invertido, que no es la intención.
Ese otro 300zx rojo, he hablado con el dueño esta misma tarde y hay que ponerle cuatro gomas y pasarle la itv ¿¿¿¿????? y es un millón de pelas. Y el que me interesa por 1650, al final me lo deja en 1.300 porque hay que comprarle un rodillo de una rueda, según la itv. Le pediré que me enseñe esos papeles de la itv y tal.
Cuando me den el carnet, me compraré otro scooter, y estaré como antes: todo el día a fuego con mi casquito y mi chaqueta y el supra como mucho para dos o tres viajitos a la semana. Si me compro éste es porque el seguro me va a salir dos duros y el rodaje gratis, es un clasico, me gusta desde que yo era pequeño y debe caminar bastante y le daré uso una vez a la semana como muuuuuucho.
Supremo muchas gracias por la información (y por darme un descanso con lo de Mariñas ) pero NECESITO ALGO MÁS, para saber de que va este cochito si voy a verlo. Y por supuesto que habrá que meterle pasta, me imagino que como poco hacerle el motor nuevo y demás, el enterior dueño del nissan rojo que dice chankla le enseñó una factura al actual de un millón de pelas sólo en el motor.
Por cierto no me desconsuela nada el 300zx biturbo y en cambio el viejo me parece encantador.
Saludos
Vosotros sois los culpables de que me estén gustando tanto estos "hierros oxidados" y como dice supremo si el coche está entero, creo que es buena oportunidad, para no pensárselo mucho, ya que con poquito que le haga lo podré volver a vender y recuperar como poco un 70% de lo invertido, que no es la intención.
Ese otro 300zx rojo, he hablado con el dueño esta misma tarde y hay que ponerle cuatro gomas y pasarle la itv ¿¿¿¿????? y es un millón de pelas. Y el que me interesa por 1650, al final me lo deja en 1.300 porque hay que comprarle un rodillo de una rueda, según la itv. Le pediré que me enseñe esos papeles de la itv y tal.
Cuando me den el carnet, me compraré otro scooter, y estaré como antes: todo el día a fuego con mi casquito y mi chaqueta y el supra como mucho para dos o tres viajitos a la semana. Si me compro éste es porque el seguro me va a salir dos duros y el rodaje gratis, es un clasico, me gusta desde que yo era pequeño y debe caminar bastante y le daré uso una vez a la semana como muuuuuucho.
Supremo muchas gracias por la información (y por darme un descanso con lo de Mariñas
) pero NECESITO ALGO MÁS, para saber de que va este cochito si voy a verlo. Y por supuesto que habrá que meterle pasta, me imagino que como poco hacerle el motor nuevo y demás, el enterior dueño del nissan rojo que dice chankla le enseñó una factura al actual de un millón de pelas sólo en el motor.Por cierto no me desconsuela nada el 300zx biturbo y en cambio el viejo me parece encantador.
Saludos
Muerte por kiki: nunca pensé que moriría así pero tampoco perdí la esperanza.
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gusitrol8pow
- Supra-Forero profesional
- Mensajes: 1473
- Registrado: 05 Abr 2008, 02:21
Muchas gracias chicos 
, estoy con unas ganas de ir a verlo que te cagas. He estado metido en una página del z31, que es el modelo del 86 y he encontrado esto, a ver si alguien puede o sabe traducirlo bien 
porque los traductores de internet no saben mucho de mecánica. Hay cosas que se entienden fácilmente, pero otras no.
¿y si sabéis de alguien del foro que controle inglés en condiciones, decidme quien es para mandárselo por privado ?
Check to see that the vin on the dash an the vin stamped into the firewall match.
It is not uncommon for a car's owner to tell you it's, say, an 84 when it's really an 85. The 10th digit in the vin designates the model year of the car, E is for 84, F for 85, so on and so on.
Before you buy the car, make sure that you see it first thing in the morning, when the engine is completely cooled down. Warm engines can hide starting problems, worn parts, weak batteries, etc.
Look under the car. See if the the front "frame rails" are bent, caved in, or whatever. This is indication of a light accident, maybe tapping a curb or something. If this is the case, have the alignment checked to make that there is sufficient adjustability to keep the alignment in spec. If a car has been wrecked, you should not automatically exclude it from consideration, it will probably be cheaper than an unwrecked one, and if it's been fixed competently, it's not that big of a deal.
If there are no records of the timing belt being changed recently, or if they look suspicious, change it/have it changed immediately after you buy the car.
Check to see if the injector work has been done on the car, and if it's suffered an engine fire. Fire will be obvious, lok to see if the insulation on the underside of the hood is melted along with some wires. If the injector work has been done already, there will be a good many nice, shiny new parts on the engine and the injectors connectors will be spliced into the wiring harness. If it hasn't been done, make an appointment to have it done after you buy the car.
Look to see if the glass is all the same. Check in the corner of the windows, if the glass is not the same all around, it may be evidence of a wreck. Or it may mean that the car was broken into and the stereo was stolen.
If you take the car on a test drive, take it through a brushless car wash. The high pressure water will expose any leaks. Leaks are not uncommon where the t-tops, door glass, and roof meet, and they are very annoying as water drips in your lap and the seat may get wet. Leaks are also often found around the rear side windows(on the side of the car, right behind the door) They are not usually bad, but mostly leave drip marks on the inside of the windows. To fix this, that big piece of rear trim that the seatbelt goes through must be removed so you can get at the two screws that hold the outside trim on. The window is held in by that annoying black, sticky, tape-like sealant. Push the window out and replace the sealant.
The only real common place for rust are in the back, at the bottom of the spare tire well, and on the left, right above the muffler, under the tool kit. Neither are serious, but if there is rust there, stop it now, espically at the bottom of the spare tire well, if it rusts through, it'll be a pain.
When you're test-driving the car, swerve violently and abuse the brakes. Also accelerate full throttl and watch for smoke in the mirror. If the wheel shimmies when you brake, plan on replacing the rotors, a ball joint, steering linkage, getting an alignment, or something along those lines. If you can get the wheels off the car, put two lugnuts on without the wheel and grap the rotor and attempt to rip it off the car. If you feel any looseness, something needs to be replaced. And, of course, if the rotor comes off in your hand, leave immediately and don't buy that car.
Look at the tread on the rear tires. It's most likely worn more on the inside edge than on the outside. This happens on all 300ZXs. Step back a few feet and stand behind the car, inline with the side. Look at the excessive negative cember that the rear wheels have, relative to the fronts. If the tires are worn very unevenly, plan on relativaly short tire life, depending on your driving. Hard driving wears the tires on the inside faster that the outer edge, "normal" driving wears the tires fairly evenly.
Know what you want the car for. If you want performance and/or plan on modifying it in the future, a turbo is a must. If you plan on lowereing the car with stiffer springs, plan on fixing the rear camber because when 300ZXs are lowered, the negative camber in the rear get ridiculous. Motorsport Auto sells a nice kit that's all worked out to give you either +1 or +1.5 degrees of camber in the rear. Any competent race shop would probably install the springs and the camber-fix-kit at the same time and align it for you for a (relatively)nominal charge.
Take off the oil filler cap and run your finger around the underside of the rocker arm cover. It should, of course, be very smooth and free of any particles suspended in the oil. If it's black, no big deal, it's just time for an oil change. Check the filter too, if it's a generic one, be a little wary. It may indicate that the owner dosen't do any work on the car himself. This is not necessarily bad, but cheap parts make for trouble later.
If you can, check the engine, transmission, and differential mounts to see if they've been separated. If they are, it won't cause a problem, just odd clunking noises. It's just another thing that may need to be fixed and is not that uncommon in all Zs.
Another sign of a previous wreck is the air conditioning condensor. Look under the front bumper up at the radiator. It's hidden way up there, almost parallel to the ground. The one in front is the a/c condensor, the radiator is right behind it. the condensor has a habit of warping in light front end boo-boos. It should be perfectly flat and straight. It will still work fine if it's warped, it just may indicate an earlier accident.
Remove the airfilter with a 10mm nutdriver and examine it. It should be fairly clean on the outside, and better be perfectly spotless on the engine side. Be very wary if it's dusty on the engine side.
With the car idling, go to the back and smell the exhaust. Any bad smells usually indicate a slight tuning problem. Also listen for any regular misfire or not-complete-fire. This may indicate ignition stuff that's worn.
If you take your time and wait for that one good deal you'll have a car that'll last for many years to come, don't rush too much.
Por cierto, tela con la página ¿eh?, nuestra web/foro da risa al lado de esta www.az-zbum.com
Muchas gracias otra vez
, estoy con unas ganas de ir a verlo que te cagas. He estado metido en una página del z31, que es el modelo del 86 y he encontrado esto, a ver si alguien puede o sabe traducirlo bien porque los traductores de internet no saben mucho de mecánica. Hay cosas que se entienden fácilmente, pero otras no.¿y si sabéis de alguien del foro que controle inglés en condiciones, decidme quien es para mandárselo por privado
?Check to see that the vin on the dash an the vin stamped into the firewall match.
It is not uncommon for a car's owner to tell you it's, say, an 84 when it's really an 85. The 10th digit in the vin designates the model year of the car, E is for 84, F for 85, so on and so on.
Before you buy the car, make sure that you see it first thing in the morning, when the engine is completely cooled down. Warm engines can hide starting problems, worn parts, weak batteries, etc.
Look under the car. See if the the front "frame rails" are bent, caved in, or whatever. This is indication of a light accident, maybe tapping a curb or something. If this is the case, have the alignment checked to make that there is sufficient adjustability to keep the alignment in spec. If a car has been wrecked, you should not automatically exclude it from consideration, it will probably be cheaper than an unwrecked one, and if it's been fixed competently, it's not that big of a deal.
If there are no records of the timing belt being changed recently, or if they look suspicious, change it/have it changed immediately after you buy the car.
Check to see if the injector work has been done on the car, and if it's suffered an engine fire. Fire will be obvious, lok to see if the insulation on the underside of the hood is melted along with some wires. If the injector work has been done already, there will be a good many nice, shiny new parts on the engine and the injectors connectors will be spliced into the wiring harness. If it hasn't been done, make an appointment to have it done after you buy the car.
Look to see if the glass is all the same. Check in the corner of the windows, if the glass is not the same all around, it may be evidence of a wreck. Or it may mean that the car was broken into and the stereo was stolen.
If you take the car on a test drive, take it through a brushless car wash. The high pressure water will expose any leaks. Leaks are not uncommon where the t-tops, door glass, and roof meet, and they are very annoying as water drips in your lap and the seat may get wet. Leaks are also often found around the rear side windows(on the side of the car, right behind the door) They are not usually bad, but mostly leave drip marks on the inside of the windows. To fix this, that big piece of rear trim that the seatbelt goes through must be removed so you can get at the two screws that hold the outside trim on. The window is held in by that annoying black, sticky, tape-like sealant. Push the window out and replace the sealant.
The only real common place for rust are in the back, at the bottom of the spare tire well, and on the left, right above the muffler, under the tool kit. Neither are serious, but if there is rust there, stop it now, espically at the bottom of the spare tire well, if it rusts through, it'll be a pain.
When you're test-driving the car, swerve violently and abuse the brakes. Also accelerate full throttl and watch for smoke in the mirror. If the wheel shimmies when you brake, plan on replacing the rotors, a ball joint, steering linkage, getting an alignment, or something along those lines. If you can get the wheels off the car, put two lugnuts on without the wheel and grap the rotor and attempt to rip it off the car. If you feel any looseness, something needs to be replaced. And, of course, if the rotor comes off in your hand, leave immediately and don't buy that car.
Look at the tread on the rear tires. It's most likely worn more on the inside edge than on the outside. This happens on all 300ZXs. Step back a few feet and stand behind the car, inline with the side. Look at the excessive negative cember that the rear wheels have, relative to the fronts. If the tires are worn very unevenly, plan on relativaly short tire life, depending on your driving. Hard driving wears the tires on the inside faster that the outer edge, "normal" driving wears the tires fairly evenly.
Know what you want the car for. If you want performance and/or plan on modifying it in the future, a turbo is a must. If you plan on lowereing the car with stiffer springs, plan on fixing the rear camber because when 300ZXs are lowered, the negative camber in the rear get ridiculous. Motorsport Auto sells a nice kit that's all worked out to give you either +1 or +1.5 degrees of camber in the rear. Any competent race shop would probably install the springs and the camber-fix-kit at the same time and align it for you for a (relatively)nominal charge.
Take off the oil filler cap and run your finger around the underside of the rocker arm cover. It should, of course, be very smooth and free of any particles suspended in the oil. If it's black, no big deal, it's just time for an oil change. Check the filter too, if it's a generic one, be a little wary. It may indicate that the owner dosen't do any work on the car himself. This is not necessarily bad, but cheap parts make for trouble later.
If you can, check the engine, transmission, and differential mounts to see if they've been separated. If they are, it won't cause a problem, just odd clunking noises. It's just another thing that may need to be fixed and is not that uncommon in all Zs.
Another sign of a previous wreck is the air conditioning condensor. Look under the front bumper up at the radiator. It's hidden way up there, almost parallel to the ground. The one in front is the a/c condensor, the radiator is right behind it. the condensor has a habit of warping in light front end boo-boos. It should be perfectly flat and straight. It will still work fine if it's warped, it just may indicate an earlier accident.
Remove the airfilter with a 10mm nutdriver and examine it. It should be fairly clean on the outside, and better be perfectly spotless on the engine side. Be very wary if it's dusty on the engine side.
With the car idling, go to the back and smell the exhaust. Any bad smells usually indicate a slight tuning problem. Also listen for any regular misfire or not-complete-fire. This may indicate ignition stuff that's worn.
If you take your time and wait for that one good deal you'll have a car that'll last for many years to come, don't rush too much.
Por cierto, tela con la página ¿eh?, nuestra web/foro da risa al lado de esta www.az-zbum.com
Muchas gracias otra vez
Muerte por kiki: nunca pensé que moriría así pero tampoco perdí la esperanza.
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Sandman
- Mochilo; el crack de la fotografía
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El Z32 si es bastante problématico, sobre todas cosas de electrónica, al parecer sufría bastante en nuestro país por el calor y empezaba a dar fallos. Otra cosa además que no todos los talleres sabe tocarle y que encima para hacer bastantes cosas en el motor había que sacarlo porque el espacio es muy muy justo.... El Z31 no sabría decir.
En clubjapo creo que "Domingo" tenía un z31, pregúntale a ver si te puede comentar algo.
En clubjapo creo que "Domingo" tenía un z31, pregúntale a ver si te puede comentar algo.
